| Using 2x4basics Picnic Table Kit, Green, and your 2x4's, you can custom build a very sturdy picnic table set up to 8 feet (2.4m). It's Easy! Simple assembly with only a powered screwdriver and a saw. Only straight 90 degree cuts are required - no miters or angles. If you would like rounded corners, a handy downloadable cutting template is provided on our website. All hardware is included. Made of durable and maintenance free structural resin the all-weather frame is built to last. The assembled table unit stands 29 inches (737 mm) tall and 30 inches (767 mm) wide, and the 2 bench units stand 17 inches (433 mm) tall and 15 inches (381 mm) wide. You choose the length. Green in color. Try combining the Picnic Table Kit with other 2x4basics outdoor furniture, such as AnySize Chair or Bench Ends, AnySize Low Table, or Flip Top BenchTable Picnic Table and Bench, to create functional and attractive furniture groupings. |
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 Good value, minor tweaking required. |
| Review Date: May 3, 2010 |
| Reviewer: J. Shin, Chicago, Illinois United States |
We spent about $250 for the kit, lumber, sandpaper, brushes, wood stain, and sealant. We also chose to invest in a power drill and electric sander to cut down on time and aggravation, which was another $100. But I sort of consider that an investment cost b/c there will be other uses for those tools. Overall I'm pleased with the quality of the kit. We're renting a house so it seemed to be a better financial chose for us than a wood table/set that would cost $1000. Our back yard is also all lawn, so we were limited on what kind of furniture we could get.
I originally just bought a bench to see if investment in an entire picnic kit would be worth it. It turned out fine and I'm a complete newbie to this sort of thing. Suggestions:
1. Before you assemble the kit, sand, stain, and seal. It's a bit more prep than I expected. But it gets really messy if you assemble and then try to stain/seal.
2. We used douglas fir lumber. The 8 foot pieces at the lumber yard were of really poor quality. So we purchased 16 foot pieces and had the lumber yard cut them into 6' sections. That left us with scrap lumber for supports so that worked out fine.
3. Even at the 6 foot length, the benches seemed to bend with anyone sitting in the middle, so we just screwed in an extra support underneath (scrap piece of 2x4) and it worked fine.
4. I'd suggest making pilot holes with a drill. It just goes faster.
5. I used a combination of 2x4 and 2x6 pieces b/c the 2x6 pieces tended to be more uniform.
I deducted one star b/c they should either build in a better bench support or mention in the directions that you should put a support in. It's a simple fix but only b/c I read some of the reviews for the other products. |
Fast delivery
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| Review Date: April 2, 2010 |
| Reviewer: Buzzbomb, Greenville, MI USA |
| I ordered this on a Monday evening and it arrived Thursday afternoon. Wow! Nice delivery speed. |
Over $140 (Finished) -- but worth it
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| Review Date: March 28, 2010 |
| Reviewer: electrical engineer, |
Not cheap, but better looking than those pre-cut models available with attached benches. Prefer separate. The legs should last indefinitely. If a board should need replacing later -- easy to remove. Made using full 8 foot length.
Hours spent trying to find "furniture grade" 2x4's. Most wind up in walls not to be seen again. Picked 21 the first time (one spare) and then later, after starting to assemble, found several warped in two planes, and also twisted. My error somehow.
Spent another 40 minutes going through a hundred more. Able to find 16 really straight ones for the bench and table tops. Chose the least warped for the cross braces underneath. Choosing which boards are most compatable is trial and error -- ideally all should mate together with no gap initially, before spreading apart to fit the mounting holes in the legs. Trying to get that perfect look as shown on the box is very difficult -- worst side down always. Forget about the 1/4 and 1/2 inch gap spacing -- align the outside boards flush with the leg ends and shift the inside boards to obtain a visually uniforn average spacing along the whole length.
Instructions use the dimension "A" for both the table top length and bench lengths, but if you use this (assuming they are the same) the bench legs will be outside the table legs -- and while not a problem, feel they look better inside. Using the recommended cut lengths for the 20 2x4's (on the box) will also result in outside bench legs. Solution: design as you wish -- with overhangs to your liking and bench legs around 2 inches inside table legs.
2x4's inserted in the plastic legs do not fit well and have a lot of play. In the vertical there is a downward plastic projection to make the fit better and suppose this is broken away to fit non USA standard lumber, but not sure.
Do not first assemble as directed. Place cross brace in legs first, but do not use any screws. Place 2x4's on ground and position legs at the correct positions and screw them down -- they will automatically assume the correct 90 degree position. Then attach the cross pieces to the legs. Left an additional 1/2 inch protruding on the cross braces (instead of flush) to avoid splitting the wood with a screw so close to the end.
Used an ice pick to form a starter hole for the 90 screws and started with a hand screwdriver then followed up with a manual "Yankee" screwdriver that twists as it is being pushed downward (unable to get a cordless drill to drive the screws at a 90 degree angle -- since the chuck is too large. Installing at a 45 degree angle did not seem like a good idea. Suppose an extension with a phillips bit may also work with the drill.
Screws attaching the cross pieces on the sides pull the plastic severely inward since the fit is really loose, but the bending did not break anything.
To get that perfect edge on the tops -- best to leave more overhang than you want then use a Skill saw with a guide attached to the tops to make an even edge.
Top boards (even with the most straight wood) may still have a slight bow up or down. Cut a 2x4 cross brace and placed at mid span with the 3.5 inch side against the table bottom. Beveled the ends at a 30 degree angle. Screwed brace with #14 x 2.5 inch wood screws into each of the top board, using 2 screws for each cross table top and bench 2x4.
Remove mill glaze from lumber either mechanically by sanding or with an acid stripper to allow stain and protector to soak in -- probably best before assembly. |
don't bother
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| Review Date: April 21, 2009 |
| Reviewer: dooker, mendocino |
| these look really cheap and the table wobbles when done , even with a brace underneath, not worth the $ and effort |
Excellent for harsh environments
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| Review Date: February 17, 2009 |
| Reviewer: B. Pratt, Maryland |
| We live on the water near the Chesapeake Bay. The environment can be harsh on wood products. We used treated wood for the 2X4s and the plastic legs makes an excellent match. Took about 3 hours to cut the wood to length and attach to the legs. I included a short length of wood cross ways in the middle, under the sections of the table and benches. This added strength and will help keep the wood from warping. Assembly is easy but you should have an electric drill for the screws, too many to do by hand. |
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